Italy
Rome
Roman street food was built for this. Pizza al taglio is sold by weight, cut with scissors and folded into paper. Supplì are fried rice balls you eat with one hand. None of it needs a table, and the city is full of gardens on hills with views worth sitting down for.
Green markers are the picnic spots. Amber ones are where to buy the food. Every place below also links straight to Google Maps for walking directions.
Before you go
- Pizza al taglio is priced per kilo. Point at what you want and say 'così' — like this — as they cut. A slice is usually €3–5.
- Sitting on the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain steps is banned and fined. The gardens on this list are all fine.
- Public drinking fountains — nasoni — run cold and free all over the city. Block the spout with your finger and it arcs upward.
Giardino degli Aranci
Aventine Hill
A walled orange grove on top of the Aventine with a terrace looking straight across the Tiber at St Peter's dome. Go an hour before sunset and the whole city turns the colour of the bricks.
- Where to sit
- Benches, low walls and gravel under the orange trees. Little grass.
- Open
- 7am–9pm.
Walking directions to Giardino degli Aranci
Pick up food first
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Mordi e Vai
€Panini filled straight from the pot: allesso di scottona, meatballs, tripe
Roman offal cooking in a bread roll, made by a former butcher. Lunchtime only, and it sells out.
Box 15, Mercato di Testaccio, 00153 · Directions
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Supplì Roma
€Supplì — fried rice balls with a molten mozzarella centre — plus pizza by the slice
€2–3 each and the size of a fist. The cacio e pepe one is the one to get.
Via di S. Francesco a Ripa 137, 00153 · Directions
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Trapizzino
€€A pocket of pizza bianca stuffed with slow-cooked Roman stews
Invented in Rome in 2008 and now everywhere. Chicken cacciatora or the meatballs.
Piazza Trilussa 46, 00153 · Directions
Passeggiata del Gianicolo
Janiculum Hill, Trastevere
The highest viewpoint in central Rome and the one the locals use. A long tree-lined walk along the ridge above Trastevere, with the entire skyline laid out below and busts of Garibaldi's soldiers watching you eat.
- Where to sit
- Benches and low walls along the whole ridge. Shade from umbrella pines.
- Open
- Open all hours. A cannon is fired at noon.
Walking directions to Passeggiata del Gianicolo
Pick up food first
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Trapizzino
€€Stuffed pizza-bread pockets
At the bottom of the hill on the Trastevere side. Buy here, then walk up.
Piazza Trilussa 46, 00153 · Directions
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Supplì Roma
€Supplì and pizza al taglio
Deeper into Trastevere, and the better of the two if you only have room for one.
Via di S. Francesco a Ripa 137, 00153 · Directions
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Forno Campo de' Fiori
€Pizza bianca and pizza rossa, sold by weight
Note the afternoon closure. The plain pizza bianca with salt and oil is the Roman standard.
Campo de' Fiori 22, 00186 · Directions
Lungotevere at Castel Sant'Angelo
Ponte, Prati
The riverside lawns and benches below Hadrian's tomb, facing the Ponte Sant'Angelo with its ten baroque angels. Close enough to the Vatican to be convenient, far enough that the crowds have thinned.
- Where to sit
- Grass and benches along the embankment, plus the wide stone parapet.
- Open
- Open all hours.
Walking directions to Lungotevere at Castel Sant'Angelo
Pick up food first
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Bonci Pizzarium
€€Pizza al taglio with rotating, unusual toppings, on a long-fermented dough
The most famous pizza al taglio in Italy. Standing room only, so buying to go is the point. Take the metro one stop to Cipro.
Via della Meloria 43, 00136 · Directions
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Antico Forno Roscioli
€Pizza by the slice, focaccia, bread, pastries
Open seven days, which makes it the Sunday answer. The mortadella pizza is the one.
Via dei Chiavari 34, 00186 · Directions
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Forno Campo de' Fiori
€Pizza bianca by weight
Across the river in the centro storico, fifteen minutes on foot over the bridge.
Campo de' Fiori 22, 00186 · Directions
Villa Borghese
Pinciano
Eighty hectares of gardens above the Spanish Steps, with a boating lake, a fake Greek temple and the Pincio terrace looking down over Piazza del Popolo and the rooftops beyond it.
- Where to sit
- Grass, benches, and the balustrade at the Pincio terrace.
- Open
- Open all hours; the Pincio terrace is busiest at sunset.
Walking directions to Villa Borghese
Pick up food first
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Pastificio Guerra
€Two fresh pastas a day, one meat and one vegetarian, about €5 a box
A shop, not a restaurant — you take the box and go. Absurdly cheap for this street.
Via della Croce 8, 00187 · Directions
Villa Celimontana
Celio
Five minutes from the Colosseum and almost empty. A quiet park with an Egyptian obelisk in the middle, gravel paths, cherry trees and Roman families with pushchairs.
- Where to sit
- Grass, benches, shade. The best-value shade near the Colosseum.
- Open
- Dawn to dusk.
Walking directions to Villa Celimontana
Pick up food first
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Zia Rosetta
€€Small filled rosetta rolls, three to a portion, with inventive combinations
In Monti, on the other side of the Colosseum. Good gluten-free bread, which is rare.
Via Urbana 54, 00184 · Directions