France
Paris
Parisians eat outside constantly and have worked out the details: a bakery for the bread, a fromagerie for the cheese, a square with gravel and chairs to eat it in. You can do the same thing with one stop and a paper bag.
Green markers are the picnic spots. Amber ones are where to buy the food. Every place below also links straight to Google Maps for walking directions.
Before you go
- Many of the best bakeries close on Saturday and Sunday, or take all of August off. Check before you walk.
- Grass in Paris squares is often fenced off, marked pelouse au repos. Gravel, benches and the stone quais are always fair game.
- Drinking alcohol in a park is broadly tolerated. Glass bottles on the canal banks are not.
Place des Vosges
Le Marais, 4e
The oldest planned square in Paris and still the most civilised: red brick arcades on all four sides, plane trees, four fountains, and lawns you are actually allowed to sit on.
- Where to sit
- Grass in the central squares, plus benches under the trees. Arcades for shelter if it rains.
- Open
- Gates open early, close around dusk.
Walking directions to Place des Vosges
Pick up food first
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L'As du Fallafel
€€The falafel special: pita stuffed with falafel, fried aubergine, cabbage, tahini and hot sauce
Closed Saturdays for Shabbat. There's a separate, faster window for takeaway — join that queue, not the restaurant one.
34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004 · Directions
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Miznon
€€Pitas stuffed with roast lamb, steak and egg, or whole roasted cauliflower
Loud, chaotic, excellent. The ratatouille pita is the best vegetarian option in the neighbourhood.
22 Rue des Écouffes, 75004 · Directions
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Chez Alain Miam Miam
€€One enormous griddled sandwich, built in front of you
Expect to queue twenty minutes or more. They let you taste the cheeses before you pick one.
26 Rue Charlot, 75003 · Directions
Canal Saint-Martin, Quai de Valmy
10e
The single most reliable free evening in Paris. People sit along the stone edge with their legs over the water, iron footbridges swing open for boats, and nobody is in a hurry.
- Where to sit
- The stone quai itself, and the benches on the tree-lined banks.
- Open
- Open all hours. Busiest from about 6pm on warm evenings.
Walking directions to Canal Saint-Martin, Quai de Valmy
Pick up food first
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Du Pain et des Idées
€Pain des amis, escargot pastries, chausson aux pommes
Closed Saturday and Sunday, which catches a lot of visitors out. The 1889 shopfront alone is worth the detour.
34 Rue Yves Toudic, 75010 · Directions
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Liberté
€Croissants, sandwiches, tarts
Open seven days, which makes it the weekend answer when Du Pain et des Idées is shut.
39 Rue des Vinaigriers, 75010 · Directions
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Le Petit Cambodge
€€Bo bun: cold rice noodles, herbs, grilled beef, nuoc cham
Ask for it à emporter. Cold noodles are the one hot-restaurant dish that genuinely improves on a canal bank.
20 Rue Alibert, 75010 · Directions
Jardin du Luxembourg
6e
The grandest public garden in the city, and unusually generous about it: hundreds of free metal chairs that you can drag wherever you like. Take one to the edge of the octagonal basin and watch children push model sailboats around.
- Where to sit
- Moveable green chairs everywhere. The lawns are mostly off-limits.
- Open
- 7.30am until dusk, whistle blown at closing.
Walking directions to Jardin du Luxembourg
Pick up food first
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Cosi
€€Sandwiches on flatbread baked to order
The bread comes out of the oven while you wait, so the sandwich is warm when you get to the park.
54 Rue de Seine, 75006 · Directions
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Maison Mulot
€€Quiche, croque-monsieur, pastries, macarons
Open on Sundays, when much of the sixth is closed.
76 Rue de Seine, 75006 · Directions
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
19e
A former gypsum quarry turned into something improbable: cliffs, a suspension bridge, a waterfall in a cave, and a Roman-style temple on a rock in the middle of a lake. The west-facing slopes fill with locals on any sunny afternoon.
- Where to sit
- Steep grass slopes, which is the whole appeal. Bring something to sit on.
- Open
- 7am–10pm.
Walking directions to Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
Pick up food first
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Boulangerie Benoît Castel
€Bread, viennoiseries, tarts, ice cream
A proper neighbourhood bakery rather than a destination one, with prices to match.
11 Rue Sorbier, 75020 · Directions
Square du Vert-Galant
Île de la Cité, 1er
The sharp western tip of the Île de la Cité, down a staircase behind the statue of Henri IV. The Seine splits around you on both sides. Almost everyone on the Pont Neuf above walks straight past the steps.
- Where to sit
- Benches and a small lawn under a weeping willow, right at water level.
- Open
- Open all hours; can flood in winter.
Walking directions to Square du Vert-Galant
Pick up food first
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Cosi
€€Warm flatbread sandwiches
Cross the Pont Neuf and keep going. Ten minutes on foot.
54 Rue de Seine, 75006 · Directions
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Maison Mulot
€€Quiche and savoury tarts
A quiche eaten cold on a river bank is a better lunch than it sounds.
76 Rue de Seine, 75006 · Directions